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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.